Soaking in Christmas

I mean that in the literal sense!  It rained so hard Christmas Eve that by the time we arrived at Bethlehem Square my feet were drenched to the knees! This will be one Christmas we won’t forget.

Rivers of rain - unavoidable

December 24th Day – This is the first year that we are away from our children at Christmas-time, so we were a bit sentimental about it. Not only that, but there is very little physical evidence of the season in Jerusalem.  Menorah candelabras stand in every square and in the windows of homes to commemorate the Jewish festival of Hanukkah. 

9 candles in the Hanukkah Menorah

Our day began with a Christmas church service in Jerusalem, followed by a tasty potluck, and followed by an amazing turkey dinner with a mix of Canadian/Norwegian traditions. The Norwegian director at Caspari Center kindly invited us to join his family for a turkey dinner, where I provided something new for them to enjoy, stuffing!  We were blessed with a great day, but it didn’t end there.

Christmas Eve in Bethlehem

Bethlehem Square Christmas tree and lights
Normally crowded with 10,000 + pilgrims - rained out

Adventurous as we are (another word for ‘crazy’), we hopped on an Arab bus at about 10 pm and headed to Bethlehem Square.  One minor obstacle almost changed our minds, rain – torrential rain!  But this is something we will probably never do again, so we sucked it up and arrived in Bethlehem soaked to the bone. Our roommate and his wife headed for the huge midnight mass to be held at the St. Catharine’s Church attached to the Nativity Church, while we couldn't get tickets and so Steve and I headed to the Evangelical-Lutheran Christmas Church of Bethlehem, where we enjoyed a meditative musical service with some folk and liturgical songs and readings in multiple languages.  

Bethlehem's Christmas Church - the Evangelical-Lutheran Church

 Sitting at the back, I had removed my very wet boots, insoles, socks and coat in an attempt to dry out….almost impossible in a stone building with little heat!  We then went back to the square for a cup of tea and waited for the midnight mass to be over.  Over 1400 people from all walks were in attendance.  You had to put your name in for a lottery to get a free ticket to attend.  Our name wasn't drawn.  I think Abbas got our tickets.


Standing cold & wet in Bethlehem Square...and the umbrella was for what purpose?
Did I mention how windy it was?

The afternoon and early evening celebrations in the square had ended and the downpour had dispersed many of the pilgrims to sheltered areas so the square was no longer crowded.  Young tea vendors slow for business badgered us incessantly to buy tea.  “No thank you” was not an acceptable response.  Turning your back was.  President Abbas, the head of the PLO made a political show at the mass and we watched his delegation leave in a parade of flashing lights, army and police guards, however, felt no tension in the square as the mood, though wet, still carried a relaxed festive air.

Outside the Church of the Nativity waiting with the soldiers for
Palestinian President Abbas to leave the square.

Israel’s Tourism Department, in an attempt to boost tourism in Bethlehem, made efforts to welcome Pilgrims to the site, lights, a huge decorated Christmas tree, all night bus service, even handing out treat bags on the bus at the border and installing banners welcoming us all.  At 2 a.m. we were able to go into the Nativity Church as people were leaving and watch the march of patriarchs, bishops and priests as they paid their respects in the grotto/shrine under the Nativity Church, the site believed to be where Christ was born. 

 

We got back to our flat at 4 a.m…..wet, chilled and exhausted, but being able to say ‘we were there!’

Reflection

As I sat in the Nativity Church trying to ‘soak’ in the moment I reflected on the event that took place in this very spot over 2000 years ago.  The incarnation of Jesus Christ changed the world. It impacted history in so many significant ways, changed the course of nations and peoples, and still today touches lives in life-transforming ways.  I think I came with a bit of an expectation that I would be carried away by the experience of being in Bethlehem on Christmas, as if it was some kind of holy act that would change my life dramatically.  So I’ve been told by others.  However, I came to the very clear realization that Christ doesn’t live in the stones of Bethlehem.  The evidence of His coming is shrouded with icons, man-made representations that clutter the ceilings, walls and altars.  Traditional ceremonies attempt to keep the story alive, but sung and spoken in languages that are no longer understood by common man.  The ancient walls of the building that was put on top of the site traditionally believed to be the very place of His birth are faded and worn and stuck in the rut of “status quo”.  It was hard for me to look past the visual barriers that others have chosen to use to commemorate the birth of Christ.  Personally, I find them distracting.  So, I realized in that moment that being here was not going to be a magical, romantic, deeply spiritual or life-altering experience.  For me it was a moment to be grateful that His coming has already penetrated and changed my life, that my faith in Him is deep and alive and that my heart is full of His presence wherever I am and not just at Christmas time, but every moment of every day.  There was no disappointment in my Bethlehem experience, but a great sense of inner peace.  Very appropriate I think.

Our touch of Christmas in the flat

Christmas Day- Dec 25th
Not much sleep, but we joined the remnant of JUC students for a yummy potluck and game of dirty BINGO, lots of fun.  We’ve made some good friends here in Jerusalem and were very thankful for time spent together on this special day.  The evening was topped off with a wonderful concert of Handel’s “Messiah” put on by the “Liturgi-Kal” choir and The Israel Chamber Orchestra and all sung in Hebrew!  It was a great way to end our Christmas Day.